Saturday, 4 September 2010
There's no place like Home
I am still in a bit of a daze and I'm sure it will take weeks and months for everything I've experienced to sink in. I've been fortunate to meet a lot of amazing people on my travels and to them all I say a huge thank you, and I will be in touch soon.
For now I am enjoying - you've guessed it - a home made cup of proper tea, some lovely sunny weather, just being with Adrian and am looking forward to catching up with the rest of my family and friends in the next few days.
Thank you for all the support I've had from those who have been following my blog, I will keep updating - albeit not as frequently - with developments as they happen. I have promised to do a lot of things on the back of this fellowship and I still have a lot of fun & hard work to come.
Take care all, thanks again for all your help & watch this space...
Tuesday, 31 August 2010
A tribute to the Osprey Staff at WendigoLake
Project REACH @ Wendigolake - TRIP 2
As before i will get around eventually to emailing Adi a more detailed account.
Day 1
-----
Incredibly, against the odds, we set of on trip with a full crew of 10 guys. Following usual shenanigans in the dorm prior to trip we managed to get away at about 11am and were on the water at 3.30pm. It had just about stopped raining at this point but was still looking ominous. Trip leader was Andrew again and was joined by two other instructors Caroline and Ian.
Temagami is a huge area about 3 hours north of Algonquin and is a series of large lakes with hundreds of islands, inlets and bays. It really is beautiful and has quite a different feel to Algonquin. The downside is the motor boats and jet skis which I found can make the area seem busy and crowded at times.
By the time we arrive at camp it's raining again. Although we've not paddled too far it's been an eventful afternoon with several discussions on the water and an brief incident resulting in a smashed paddle and several unfortunate inukshuks. When the tents are set up it transpires that one of the ground sheets is missing.
Day 2
------
Torrential rain in the night and the guys wake up around 5am, noisily complaining of being wet - especially in the tent without a ground sheet. Nothing like a wet sleeping bag & lack of sleep to cause grumpiness amongst the campers.
Our food barrels and one food bag which had been floated in the canoe last night ( bear float ) are retrieved from a canoe almost swamped with water. Our buns for the mornings sausage burgers have to be first wrung out but amazingly this causes very little issues. The guys get on with it, fry the buns in margarine and manage to serve a very acceptable breakfast.
We paddle into a headwind today but choose a camp quite early as we have lots of drying out to do. A couple of the guys get a fire going quickly and we set about drying out at least half the crews sleeping bags which are literally sopping wet through. The rain has eased to a slight drizzle but this does nothing to improve the mood. We have several discussions for swearing, peer disrespect and on more than one occasion a crew member throws water on the fire in a temper. But it gets re-lit without much problem and we carry on drying out the sleeping bags.
When it comes to sorting out tent groups there is a 'heated' debate. Guys are supposed to change tent groups each day but since one has no ground sheet they eventually decide to change tents but stay in the same groups as last night. I ask whether they have all double checked their bags for the missing ground sheet and get shot down in flames ! An hour later one of the guys finds the missing ground sheet in the bottom of his pack. By evening check-in all the sleeping bags are dried out, it has stopped raining and the mood has improved.
------
After a much needed good nights sleep we all awake in - slightly - better spirits. Camp gets packed up eventually and by 10.30am we are on our way. My paddle partner has informed me that I'd better be strong because he has no intention of paddling today. True to his word he flatly refuses to paddle. The group stop a couple of times in order to let us catch up and the rest of the crew give him lots of encouragement to paddle - in their own special way.
During the afternoon the crew are fairly stable and enjoy swimming, fishing and a bit of chilling out time.
Andrew confides to the staff that as well as the food bag, one of the barrels also leaked and we need to check all of our food to see if it is still all OK. Unfortunately the leak in the barrel was worse than suspected and a lot of our food has been ruined. We only have food left for 3 more nights and will have to arrange an extra pick up. Andrew studies the map and tells the staff that we will have to change our route ( which involves an unplanned 760m portage ) and that tomorrow's layover day will have to be cancelled.
He breaks the news to the crew at check-in - i think it's fair to say that it could definitely have gone better. Due to the fact I've not had any training in restraint, I watch from the sidelines.
At around 12.30am myself and Ian head to bed, Andrew and Caroline stay up for another hour or so.
Day 4
------
The guys are somewhat fractious this morning and a few are anxious about the impending discussion about the events of last night. We get on the water about 11am and paddle into a bay in order to raft up and conduct the discussion. Accountability is taken, feedback given and consequences ( 72hr OP ) are allocated. There have been many OP's issued on the trip so far and I confess to having lost track of them all at this point.
We continue paddling but unfortunately one of the guys involved in last nights incident is now refusing to paddle. We raft up for a discussion due to not paddling but unfortunately the person in question is in no mood for this right now. The upshot is that we split the group and end up on opposite sides to a bay, remaining in radio contact. While Caroline and Ian remain with the guy who needs some space and also one other peer who is trying to talk him round, Andrew and I take the rest of the group away from the situation. We have lunch, swim, play games etc. and a couple of hours later the group is reunited and appropriate discussions are held.
We paddle until late afternoon and find a lovely campsite by which time the crew are all stable and set about on various camp chores. With the exception of a few discussions which came about due to inappropriate reactions to the nude swimming of our camp neighbours, the evening passed relatively uneventfully.
The weather has improved and several of the guys are choosing to sleep outside of tents. However they must be in staff site and initial reluctance to comply with this adds another hour onto our bedtime.
Day 5
------
It rained overnight and one of the guys sleeping outside went into a tent in the middle of the night but for some reason left his sleeping bag outside. He is not a happy camper. There is a lot of arguing going on but eventually breakfast in cooked. Breakfast is oatmeal ( porridge ) which the guys hate so this could be contributing to the arguing. We are on the water eventually and by lunchtime the sun is out. We hope to have a quick lunch as we would like to make some distance up today but events during lunch mean it ends up being about 2 hours. We get going eventually when yet another crew member refuses to paddle. This is resolved relatively quickly and as the wind picks up we have a much needed tailwind. At 5.30pm after having done a short portage of 70m ( which was planned ) the guys are starting to get tired and hungry.
Of course we now have 4 unhappy crew members.
We find a camp and two of the crew start throwing and then eating unidentified berries. We circle up for a discussion and they are given a 48hr OP for a safety concern. This doesn't go down well and the rest of the crew are advised to 'disengage' from them whilst they throw rocks at the canoes, eat more berries and according to one unconfirmed ( and not particularly reliable source ) bite the heads off frogs.
By check-in we are all stable once again albeit in a somewhat subdued mood. The leader of the day starts check-in by a roaring rendition of the repeat after me song 'Toast' which raises everyone spirits and we all go to bed much much happier.
Day 6
------
We finally reach a really nice campsite where we are to spend our layover day tomorrow. Everyone is stable for a while and we have fun swimming and fishing. Late afternoon one of the guys goes to lie down and sleep in their tent - this is not allowed. They can bring carry mats out onto the rocks and in the sun but not in the tent during the day. We have already had a previous issue with this in the trip and if warnings from staff are ignored the consequence is that the tent is taken down around the person still in it.
-------
We only have 5km to our final campsite but Andrew decides we need to tire them out more and doesn't want to have a long afternoon at camp. We therefore paddle round an Island in order to make it a 10km journey. I only here one of the crew say in a slightly puzzled voice - " haven't we just paddled round in a circle " - we all ignore it and no more is said. We have an hour or so of calm and I get chance to chill out in my hammock again. Not for long though. Following a discussion which one member of the crew thinks is unfair he storms off round the corner and we hear a loud splash as he begins jumping off rocks into the water in an area which has not been checked. This takes a while to sort out but eventually we are all sitting round the campfire as Caroline runs the end of trip debrief. This is wonderful and leaves everyone feeling really good about themselves, it's definitely something I am going to use as a review tool in the future.
Day 10
--------
The van is only a short 1km paddle away and we plan to have a final morning swim to try and reduce the odour in the van for the 3 hour drive home. But you know what they say about the best laid plans...A stupid little incident gets out of control and one guy ends up with a head injury which has to be bandaged up. He later is taken to hospital where he has a couple of stitches (I think) and a mild concussion.It is an unfortunate end to the trip which, despite it's ups and downs has been a terrific 10 days. I don't view the fights, sulks, arguments, awols etc... as incidents which have spoilt the trip in anyway. I think of them as necessary and integral parts of the healing process. It's a long and hard journey for these young men and I wish them all the best of luck.
Monday, 30 August 2010
Osprey trip 2 - Back in camp
I will endeavour to post a fuller trip report in the next few days but for now I will leave you with a small selection of photos. Right now I need a cup of tea and an early night. Sweet dreams x
Saturday, 21 August 2010
Osprey Trip 2 - Day1
We are all packed up ready to go and I'm just about to head over for breakfast. All 10 of the crew ( including a new guy as one goes home today ) are packed and 'on side' at present but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. The weather has taken a turn for the worst and its raining hard so that may be an obstacle to over come for a few ! we are heading up to Temagami which I'm really excited about since I haven't managed to get up there so far this trip.
Will sign out for now and upate on the 30th or 31st, Love Sarah x
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Paddler Co-Op : Kidactive
They have been ferry gliding, doing 's' and 'c' turns and have been swimming down the whitewater as well as running a section of the lower part of Palmer Rapids. I've taken lots of videos of their kayaking but can't seem to downloaded it onto the blog at the moment. I've put a few photo's on for now but have loads more and am hoping to get the video's organised soon.
Dan,the instructor, was fantastic and Shawna and the & the team made me feel so welcome. I'm back at Wendigo Lake now and we'll be getting ready for the trip tomorrow. The crew seem in fairly good spirits but watch this space...
Tuesday, 17 August 2010
Project REACH @ Wendigolake - TRIP 1
DAY 1
Breakfast at 8am and despite the fact it is only 30minutes to the put in we don't get on the water until 3.30pm. Multiple crew refuse to get out of bed, then refuse to come on trip. We leave Wendigo Lake with 6 out of the 8 who should be coming ( 2 are on home leave ). On arriving at the put in 2 guys refuse to get out of the van. After much to-ing and fro-ing we are all on the water eventually. Bad language is a huge problem for one particular young lad and we end up in several group discussions. Discussions can be called by staff or student for any number of reasons eg. bad language, staff or peer disrespect, horseplay, safety issues etc. This involves all the staff and crew standing (or sitting if in boats ). Sunglasses need to be removed and if anyone spits in the circle, the circle must be moved. The person who has called for the discussion explains why and the crew are invited to take accountability for their actions. If this is not done then other members may hold them accountable. The discussion is then open for peers and staff to give feedback and ultimately a consequence will be given. Consequences vary depending on the 'crime' and could be extra chores or a time OP ( Off Privileges - this means that they are not allowed to wear own clothes etc. listen to music or any other privileges that have been earned. On trip this means that they must spend time at their OP Tree reflecting on what they have done and miss out on swim or fish time etc.)
Day2
Andrew the trip leader radios into base and is informed that we need to stay put for the day. Thunder storms are forecast and we need to wait for one of the crew to join us and also for base to get medication to us for one of the crew who has run out. Staff are concerned as to how a lay-over day this early in the trip will go. Turns out to be a great day with only a few discussions and relatively little problems. The guys fish, we all go swimming and play games in the woods. For all the issues these guys are dealing with, at heart they are a great bunch of guys and when they are on form are really fun to be with.
Day3
We are on the move today albeit on a different route from originally planned due to the fact we have lost so much time already. We have a 1.9km of portage today and this caused a few behaviour challenges which are overcome eventually.
Day4
A very slow start to the day, mostly because there was too much water in the scrambled eggs which took a while to sort out and by then the crew were pretty lethargic and unwilling to do their various chores in order to get on the water. Chores are allocated each day and these are as follows ; breakfast, lunch, dinner, suncream, FRU ( friggin' remnants unclaimed ) patrol, water collection, bear float ( putting all food in barrels and floating at end of day ), tooth brushing ( ensuring all crew brush teeth and put toothpaste in barrel for bear float ), leader of the day and floater. Of course since there are only 7 on trip some jobs have to be picked up by others. Eventually we head off and a
Day5
3 portages today - 1.5km, 1.2km and 750m - separated by a couple of ponds that we could have swam across. I seriously feel like I'm on a hiking trip and have brought my canoe along by mistake.
Day6
The crew wake up feeling refreshed after their 'lie-in'. We bang out the portages and short paddles and are at our next camp in good time. This is the best afternoon yet. Everyone has so much fun playing in the water and then later games in the woods.
Day7
Up early today in order to get to our rendevous point for 10am. We have no problems in motivating the crew as they are all eager to get back to camp for showers, phone calls, and are looking forward to having their meals cooked for them again. It's been a terrific experience for me and I've had a lot of fun on the trip and pleased that I'll get the chance to go on trip with them again before I leave Canada.
Sunday, 15 August 2010
Bridget Jones does Vision Quest - Part 2
------------
5.15pm
Hurrah ! Matches have ignited and fire is roaring. Go in search of more firewood. Whilst looking for firewood discover 2 'thingys' off the side of match boxes just laying on the ground. Moral of this story - if you forget something have a good search around as chances are someone will have left just what you need for you.
7.30pm
After a mere 2 1/4 hours have boiled water and enjoying cup of tea. No vision yet, maybe it has to be dark.
8.00pm
Pasta supper ready, delicious ! Although cooking on open fire encourages feeling of Wilderness Canoe Goddess, think that will use stove in the morning to expediate process.
8.30pm
Headed out to secluded bay for after dinner swim and bath. Think that WCG would perform such a ritual naked. Part way through swim and bath with hair full of biodegradable camp suds am interrupted by couple seemingly out for romantic evening fish & paddle. They have run aground and romantic mood appears to have be somewhat replaced by domestic argument as to who needs to get out of canoe to push off. 'Evening' I venture, wondering who feels the most intruded upon. Just as well I had remembered at the last moment that I was a reserved English woman and therefore not predisposed to swimming naked.
9.00pm
Relieved not to have been swimming naked but feeling somewhat cheated by the interruption of arguing couple. Decide to have a dance topless round the campfire instead - surely this would induce wilderness vision.
9.15pm
Quite good fun but feel having Kevin Costner join in would have improved situation.
9.30pm
Hot water on the boil for hot chocolate and getting dark now. Eagerly anticipating vision. Pretty dark think will go and get headtorch so can find way back to tent later. Fire looking a bit low but can't see where pile of earlier collected firewood is. Ratch around and find good chunk of wood and head to look in barrel for torch.
9.45pm
Back at campfire, has picked up somewhat. S***t ! Who put the paddle on the fire ?
10pm
Paddle seems to have survived relatively unscathed, nothing that a bit of gaffer tape can't fix.
10.45pm
Boiling water for hot chocolate in record time.
11pm
Disappointed not to have yet received vision but head to bed hopeful that may occur during the night.
Day 2
------
8am
Slept so deeply that I fear vision unable to get through.
8.05am
Can't seem to find the stove although I have got the fuel bottle. Have vague memories of taking it out to repack but cant' seem to remember putting in back in.
8.30am
Have searched both barrel and my bag and definitely no stove. Have also made a thorough search of the camp area to see if any stoves have been left behind by previous groups, but alas in vain. Start collecting firewood. Seems a bit windier than yesterday.
10am
Tea and porridge in yet another record time, all packed up and ready to head back. Slightly disappointed have not yet had vision but nevertheless am feeling like a true Wilderness Canoe Goddess, vision or not.
2pm
Bl***y H*ll this is hard work. have travelled about a quarter of the way back against howling winds sometimes having to stop and line the boat along the lake shore. Have managed to get some shelter behind a large island on the lake and am currently in process of sneaking round to the front.
2.15pm
MY VISION APPEARS
I am standing on a sandy beach on the largest Island of West North Tea Lake in the Algonquin Park. I am looking west over to the portage sight which will take me back to base camp. But instead of seeing the lake I am faced with the Atlantic Ocean. Waves 5ft high raising towards me, reaching their crescendo and then crashing down in a blast of white spray. I am stunned. I am speechless ( although their is currently no-one to speak to ) I have but one single thought in my mind - Oh S**t
I hear a sound and look to my left 'hi there !' - I meet my fellow marooned camp mates Mike & Avon.
3.00pm
Mike and Avon are positively delighted to have company. They have been 'stuck on this friggin island' for 4 days and are immensely grateful to have someone else to talk to. They are both in their fifties, are annual trippers and have not been stuck like this ever. They have spent the last few days bored out of their minds with the monotony only broken by the occasional canoe capsize they have witnessed just off the end of the island. They make me a cup of tea ( they have two stoves ) and we ponder the situation.
4.00pm
I have convinced myself that the wind has died down and the waves are significantly reduced. I thank Avon & Mike for their hospitality and set off towards the portage.
5.15pm
That was a great work out. After paddling - literally on the spot - for a solid hour I am back on the beach much to the delight of my fellow windbound paddlers. Comments such as 'Brave effort' and 'You've got some guts' help cheer my mood. I concede defeat - at least for the moment.
6.pm
After musing through various options which admittedly were limited I decide to camp overnight and get up early when wind drops. My contacts back at base camp were expected me this evening and I hope they have the sense to realise am windbound and not send out helicopter search party - that would be most embarrassing for WCG. Thankfully my new campmates are happy to share stove again and we spend a pleasant few hours chatting.
9.30pm
Huddled in tent whilst outside vision continues - this time thunderstorm has been added to the equation.
Day 3
------
3am
Wake up to the sound of ...well, nothing. I peep out of tent to see sky full of stars with a new yet bright shining moon and a still lake. Pack up tent swiftly and head on water. Set course for Orions belt and paddle towards the portage.
3.30am
Half way across I stop for a while and take in the moment. The new moon is shining so brightly and reflecting on the water with a beautiful shimmer. The stars are so clear it is incredible. I see a shooting star and make a wish, then I see another and another until I loose count. I make the same wish. This must still be my vision because I can hardly imagine a scene so perfect.
4.30am
I am now carrying canoe, packs and barrel again. Vision is definitely over as portaging in the dark no more fun than in daylight.
6am
Portages and river journey over ( a few beavers kept me company along the way ) and can now see base camp in sight as the sun starts to rise behind me.
6.30am
Back at base camp. Alexis is up and preparing breakfast. 'Hey -I was just thinking about you - guess you got windbound yesterday. He asks me 'How was your trip ?' For the second time in the last 24 hours I have only one single thought -
'Awesome' I reply.
Friday, 13 August 2010
Bridget Jones does Vision Quest - Part 1
Bridget Jones Vision Quest
---------------------------
Day 1
11am.
At last, setting off on great adventure to search for Wilderness Canoe Goddess in me. ( WCG for short) Of course Vision Quests are supposed to be 4 days long and mine was planned for 2. Well actually originally 3 but the rain yesterday was so awful that would surely have blocked ability to connect with nature and self. So two days and one night it is. More like a 'Vis' Quest. Yes thats it, Vision Quest for the modern woman - after all who really can spare 4 days out of a busy life to sit in the woods thinking. Of course Vision Questers are supposed to fast. However, health&safety procedures ruled this out due to risk of passing out alone in wilderness. Anyway, surely WCG would have blazing campfire thus creating right setting for vision to appear.
2pm.
Finally have arrive at chosen lake after paddling down creek & lugging canoe and gear { all by myself ! } over 3 portages. Wind is at my back ( glad I'm not having to paddle against it ), sun is shining. Yes, yes, I can feel the WCG in me starting to stir as I leave the hustle and bustle of daily life & all its inconveniences far behind.
2.10pm
Checked mobile phone again. Definitely no signal.
3pm
Positively flew down the lake with the wind blowing in my hair to arrive at beautiful campsite on Island. No-one else on the island but rather noisy neighbours on opposite shore. Hope they won't interfere with vision ability.
3.30pm
Tent up and ready to go, wood collected for raging fire and ready for the grand lighting. Will have boiling water and a cup of tea on the go in no time.
4.30pm
Despite dryness of rocks seem unable to light any of my matches. Didn't think I'd need one of those thingys that you get on the box of matches to light them and to save weight had transferred out of box into waterproof bag. First thought was 'what a pain, i'll have to use the stove' ( brought stove just in case was unable to start fire ) followed closely by 2nd thought 'oh s***t. Considering options ;
1. Sit tight, eat chocolate, raw peppers & cereal bars for supper & tell no-on of slight glitch in vision quest.
2. Take most treasured possession and paddled to nearest campsite in order to trade for matches which work.
4.35pm
On way to nearest campsite ( with earlier mentioned noisy occupants ) armed with bar of dairy milk chocolate. On approaching campsite am alarmed to see all occupants run from beach and hide behind trees near tents. Surely a single female in canoe couldn't cause such alarm. 'Coo-ee ! Hello there, terribly sorry to bother you, wondering if you could help me out ? ' [ Best English accent obviously as to not alarm natives any further - the more you sound like the queen the more they trust you ] A pow wow took place between the - seemingly all female occupants - and the bravest girl was sent down to deal with the impostor. 'Hi, this is awfully embarrassing but I seem to have brought safety matches with me and am unable to light them - could I interested you in a trade for a bar of chocolate ?''Errr' came the reply ' we weren't given many and our lighter is supposed to be for emergencies only'. Oh God, the embarrassment grows, I am seeking help from an outward bound group of teenage girls on their first solo trip. 'Have you tried striking them on a rock ?' the chief asks me and 'are they wet ?' Yes and No I replied to both - she clearly thinks I am an idiot and doesn't yet recognise me as WCG. The chief retreated to camp for another pow wow and returned with 8 matches which I traded for my most treasured dairy milk.
4.45pm
Paddling back to camp wondering if my situation has improved or not. Have more matches, with still no actual 'thingy' to light them on if rocks don't work and have given away chocolate. I could have made things worse...
( being kicked out of library so will have to wait for part 2 ! )
Wolf Howls in Algonquin Park
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
A brief update - Moose, Wolves and Howling !
this is just a quick update to give you a flavour of what I've been up since I left Yellowknife. I'm in the publlic library at South River and unable at the moment to update any new photos.
From leaving Yellowknife I spent a lovely couple of days with Sarah Hurst and family ( Jim, Keiran, Ethan & Cameron ) who have looked after me during my stopover days in Mississauga. Thanks so much to all of you guys, I had a lovely time and especially enjoyed watching Keirans baseball game - well done he played really well and got a massive hit any cricketer would be proud of ;-)
From there is was up to Huntsville where I met George & Barbara Drought who are extremely experienced canoeists and very well known in Canada. George has written several whitewater guide books and I am now the proud owner of signed copies ! They kindly picked me up in Hunstville, cooked a wonderful BBQ and then gave me a lift out to the Wolf Den. While at the Wolf Den I did some hiking in the Algonquin Park where I saw a deer swimming, a moose and a couple of playful otters.
Since Friday I have been at the Northern Edge Algonquin and spent two nights camping in the Park with our guide Alexis and 4 other people who were on the Wolf Howl experience. There is lots more to tell but in summary had a fantastic couple of days, saw moose and lots of loons. Although we didn't hear any wolves we had great fun howling ! Alexis is a wilderness guide & a great guy who works with the Northern Edge and also his own company Earth Tracks. I will update more when I get the chance but in the meantime check out the links...
Alexis has kindly lent me his truck so I could get to the library but I'm back off to The Edge now until Friday when I'll be hooking up with Wendigolake. I won't be online again until the 14th August probably so take care all and thanks for following,
Sarah x
Tuesday, 27 July 2010
The Rae River - Chapter 7 "Just The Rae"
An English girl got a Churchill Grant, signed up for a river with David Plante
She was looking for a wild adventure
Flew up to Yellowknife one day, then on they went to the River Rae
Little did she know what held in store
Chorus
Just the Rae, Just the Rae, Just the Rae, Just the Rae
You know it's just the little ole River Rae
Artic Circle here we come, un-chartered rivers to be run
But what the hell, it's only the River Rae
Now Dave he is the coolest guy, with a beaming smile & a twinkle in his eye
He's a gourmet cook and a crackin' paddler too
Mark - he is the king of faff, but he's really strong and he's a darn good laugh
And Gene is such a charming sweet old guy
Chorus
Hooper Creek was push and pull, down The LaPlante, it was real good fun
We portaged Damiens' Falls along the way
At Merganser rapids we got some luck, then were put to shame by a paddling duck
With Dave & Sarah singing all the way
Chorus
Now the Polish boat didn't think it was risky, until they swam the Smell a Whisky
And Gene didn't have his front line clothes today
The Anglo- French team nailed it, but with some small confusion
And what does left or right mean anyway ?
Chorus
Dave, Mark & Sarah took a hike - Gene stayed at camp, they went out of sight
Pepper spray and bangers in their bags
Big old grizzly was taking a nap, Dave saw him first said 'guys get back'
'Get your bear bangers out lets chase this fella away !
Chorus
Fresh artic char and muskox steak, creme caramel and apple crisp bake
And Gene said he was here to lose some weight
Eggs Benedict and strawberry crepes, pancakes too, now don't be late
For the finest keylime pie in the Artic North
Chorus
Kugluktuk came into sight, it was here we'd spend our final night
Looking over the Coronation Gulf
The sea was calm, the sky was blue, our dreams of the River Rae came true
And now we say farewell to the midnight sun
Chorus
Sunday, 25 July 2010
Posting Comments on BLOG
To post comments on the blog you must first set up a profile. To do this go to the block named "Followers"
Click on "Follow "
this will open up a new window. in that window
click on " create a new google account"
fill in all of the requested details i.e. email address; password; age etc then
Complete the "word verification" then accept the google terms to create an account.
This will open up another window which allows you to either sign in and become a follower with a picture (or just a profile) or sign in private (this just means that you do not post your name in the Followers list. But when you leave a post it will automatically register your email name)
To leave a Comment
Click on "Comments" This will open up the window in which you can write the comment.
When complete select the "Google account " in the "Comment as" drop down window then follow the prompts to sign in.
Click "Post Comment" then complete the "word verification" and that should be it.
To leave future comments you only need to carry out the instructions from where I have written To leave a Comment
PS.
I forgot to mention - to post a comment you must first sign in in the Followers window. Your name will then appear where the word FOLLOWER was.
Also it is sometimes necessary to click on Post Comment twice in order to get the Verification box. Don't for get to sign out (by clicking the drop down arrow next to your name).
Friday, 23 July 2010
The Rae River - Chapter 6 ( John Rae, The Coronation Gulf & Kugluktuk )
If you visit Westminster Abbey you will find a a marble bust of Sir John Franklin on which is inscribed "the discoverer of the North West Passage", and not far away at Waterloo Place you will find a statue which proclaims the same. Also inscribed on the bust is the addition that " here also is commemorated Admiral Sir Leopold McClintock (discoverer of the fate of Franklin in 1859 "
I have learnt a lot in the past few weeks about the quest for the North West passage, the search for Franklin and the Artic journeys that took place in the early- mid 19th century, both from my paddling companions and also the book 'Fatal Passage' by Ken McGoogan - a gripping read. Incidentally, Sir John Barrow ( the Hoad in Ulverston is a monument to him ) was a leading figure in the 1840's who were obsessive in pushing the drive for the NW Passage.
The book is definitely worth a read but the short version is that John Rae, born in the rugged Orkney Islands of northern Scotland, in 1854, actually discovered both. He is considered by many to be the greatest Artic explorer of them all. He was the first to afford the local Inuit and Native Americans the respect which they deserved and in contrast to ( I think I can say ) every other explorer before him ( and many that went after ) adopted their ways of living in order to adapt to the harsh conditions in which they lived. When he returned to England after discovering what had happened to Franklin (and the missing link in the NWP) he told the truth. His investigations ( later proved correct by science ) led him to report that the last remaining survivors had resorted to Cannibalism in order to survive. However, Franklin's wife, one of the most influential people in this era was not about to have her husbands name tainted and with the help of Charles Dickins set about a campaign of denial and vilification against John Rae.
The book tells the story much better than I can and definitely worth a read.
The Coronation Gulf
You may recognise the above figure - an 'Inukshuk' - since it was the symbol of the Olympic Games in Vancouver. The original Inukshuk are figures of stone erected by Inuit and are unique to the Canadian Artic. In some places the traditional meaning was to act as compass or guide for safe passage. Today they have been adopted as symbols for such things as leadership, friendship, safety & nourishment, trust & reassurance.
The Inukshuk historically guided people over frozen tundra and gave them hope in barren places to handle the difficulties they encountered.
"May the Inukshuk be your guide for a safe journey throughout life's travels
May it always guide you home"
Kugluktuk
Kugluktuk is the small Inuit hamlet on the Coronation Gulf and where we finished our trip. Formerly known as Coppermine, it was renamed Kugluktuk when the area of the North West Territories - now Nunuvat - was handed back to the Inuit people. Kugluktuk means 'place of the falls' - after Bloody Falls on the Coppermine River.
Now Kugluktuk has got its fair share of problems, but what it can't be faulted for is the incredible friendliness of the locals who live there. Everyone who passed our campsite came to say hello - word of our arrival had gotten around because canoeists don't generally come in from the West. [ The Coppermine River east of Kugluktuk is a very popular river though ] The two older boys on the left were avid fishermen and were out hoping to catch Artic Char. There was a local fishing Derby coming up at the weekend with a prize of $1500 - when Dave asked what they would spend the money on they replied without hesitation 'fishing hooks !'
The three cheeky looking chaps on the right - Tyson, Danzel & Kevin - came down to the beach to investigate our campsite. After answering a few hundred of their questions we skimmed stones for a while ( kyak, kyak ) and I taught them to play giants, wizards an dwarfs - they loved this game and we tried to come up with a Inuit version involving Grizzly bears, Caribou , Muskox etc. but since the Grizzly clearly wasn't defeated by anything we gave up.
The Rae River - Chapter 5 ( Portages & Flowers )
Portages spoil a good canoe journey. There is no fun to be had in lugging heaving gear in the rain or heat with mosquitoes bugging you along the way. No sooner have you begun to enjoy the river then you had to unload everything again and carry your stuff for 100s ( sometimes 1000s) of meters across rocky boggy ground. They are a pain in the proverbial and not to be planned into any canoe trip or encouraged in any way.
OR
Portages are an exciting part of a journey across a land full of lakes and rivers. They make exploring remote areas possible. They are an opportunity to stretch your legs and work some different muscles. They open your eyes to the beautiful wildflowers which cover the barren lands. They are sometimes hard & challenging but when it's over you look back and feel good.
Like most things, your attitude determines which it is...I hope you enjoy a few of the flowers I saw along the way...
At some point I'll get around to looking all of these up and finding out what they are called
The Rae River - Chapter 4 ( The Wildlife )
The wildlife we saw was incredible and at times I felt as though I was at home watching a wildlife documentary. There are a few reasons why we may have been so lucky - traveling in a small group meant that we could stop and investigate where we wanted without having to push on to a schedule, it may have been the remoteness of the area and lack of people who travel this way meant that we saw the things we did, or we could have just been lucky. Whatever the reason, it was wonderful... ( Daves' wildlife photos are far better than mine but these will have to do for now ! )
watch us paddle by. They are also known as 'bear snacks' and we found lots of evidence of grizzlies having dug up their colonies.
We saw lots of birds - bald eagles ( above )and gyr falcons ( above ) as well as golden eagles and peregrine falcons. One day we saw nature in action, straight out of national geographic - we were so mesmorised that we don't have photos unfortunately. We were watching a golden eagle soaring and circling high above and stopped paddling, quite close to shore to see what happened next. Before long the eagle made a vertical dive down towards a family of geese with several goslings. Much flapping of wings and squawks of distress ensued and we were left with the eagle landed on the banking - looking quite pleased with himself and a ( seemingly ) dead gosling which had not quite made it to the river. Within seconds a raven came from no-where, almost dive bombed the eagle and led him high up into the clouds. We watched these two for 5 or 10 minutes while the raven tormented the eagle in a display that the snowbirds would have been proud of. Meanwhile, the little gosling ( who we now realised had only been playing dead ) toddled off to catch up with the rest of his family. We were totally stunned. Was the raven a buddy of the geese? Was the raven angry with the eagle for a previous mis-demeanour ? Or did he go after the eagle just because he could ? Perhaps we'll never know...
The ptarmigans allowed us to get really close, I was only a few feet away from the one on the left (above )
We saw dozens of caribou on our trip and when we started meeting local Inuits it was one of the first things they asked us about. The caribou in our area is know as the Bluenose East herd. They have been the subject of much research and controversy lately as the numbers have dropped dramatically in the north and in some areas a hunting ban has been put in place. There are many theories as to why the numbers have dropped but feeling I got from folk I chatted to was that at the moment no-one is really sure as to the reason ( or reasons ) why and more research is needed.
We saw several wolves but only one pair and a small herd of muskoxen. We were able to stop and watch the creatures for as long as we wanted. They were as curious of us as we were of them - after all they had probably not seen people before !
And now let me introduce, Mr G R Izzly...
OK, so we saw a great looking grizzly early on in the trip whilst we were paddling. It was really cool, I got an OK photo and with a bit of exageration I could have made a good story, it was at a safe distance and I was happy.
Then we had a day off and decided to go for a hike. Gene stayed at camp and despite his protests of 'I don't think there will be any bother with bears today' we insisted he kept one of the pepper sprays. We had the other one ( which I slept with ) and bangers in our bags. Not more than 500m from camp we sat on the top of a rock outcrop and chatted away, looking through our binoculars and enjoying the sunshine. After 10 minutes or so we continued on our walk and after no more than a minutes walking Dave said ' guys back up there's a bear'. There was no doubt in my mind from his tone that he wasn't joking. 'Where ? where ? I said as backing up 'I can't see it' - 'you nearly frickin stood on him' was his reply. [ I should point out that this does not need any amount of exageration to make a good story ] Oh my goodness, then I saw him - asleep on the rocks ! We spied our escape route, loaded our bangers, all in hushed tones and then I have no shame in telling you that I retreated to a distance which put two good meals ( see photo above ) between me and the bear. At this point I assumed that we would be leaving the 'sleeping bear to lie' and retreating without waking him but his proximity to our camp ( 500m ) and the fact we were staying their that night meant that Dave & Marks theory ( they are vets ) was to scare him away. So Dave set off a 'screamer' - sounds like a firework. That only succeeded in waking him up - Oh my goodness, I am thinking, now we have a grumpy bear ! There followed a short discussion between my two companions ( something about throwing a rock versus setting another banger off ) before Dave set off another banger - which sounded like a gunshot and scared the bear away.
But it wasn't over yet !
As we watched the bear run away we notice two other animals - and one of them was Gene ! A wolf was running away from Gene { who had set off for a hike by himself ! ) and the bear was running towards him ! Thankfully Gene came to some large boulders and decided to turn back whilst the bear ran round the back of the boulders - phew !
When we eventually made it back to camp Gene was blissfully unaware of his near miss and was feeling clean and refreshed after having just enjoyed a rather nice bath in the river !
Remember - Take bears seriously and always have protection at hand !